A Gentle Journey Through the Galician Heartland
Stage 9 of the Portuguese Coastal Way offers a restorative escape into the tranquil countryside of Galicia. This 21-kilometer segment from Pontevedra to Caldas de Reis is celebrated for its lush woodlands, traditional villages, and gentle terrain, making it an ideal leg for both seasoned and first-time pilgrims.
Whether you’re seeking spiritual reflection or natural beauty, this stage delivers a peaceful rhythm that allows you to slow down, connect with the landscape, and prepare for the stages ahead on the Portuguese Camino.
Infographic Summary: Key Facts for Pilgrims
- Distance: 21 kilometers / 13 miles
- Estimated Time: 4 to 5 hours
- Difficulty: Easy to Moderate
- Scenery: Forested trails, vineyards, streams, traditional villages
- Points of Interest: San Amaro, Lombo da Maceira, Caldas de Reis
- Must-Bring Items: Towel, swimsuit, insect repellent, warm layer
Highlights of the Route
From City to Silence
Leaving Pontevedra, pilgrims are quickly immersed in greenery. The transition from city to forested trail is almost immediate, with shaded paths leading into nature’s calm. Listen for birdsong, the burble of streams, and the crunch of leaves underfoot.
San Amaro: Rustic Charm
Roughly halfway through the day, the quiet village of San Amaro offers a glimpse of traditional Galician architecture and rural life. It’s a recommended stop for a short rest or a coffee from one of the small local cafés.
Lombo da Maceira: Vineyard Views
This scenic area is known for its panoramic views over surrounding vineyards and rolling hills. It’s a perfect place to pause, breathe deeply, and capture a photo of the verdant Galician landscape.
Arrival in Caldas de Reis: Wellness and Heritage
Thermal Springs
The historic town of Caldas de Reis is famed for its thermal waters, used for centuries to heal tired bodies. After your walk, dip your feet into one of the public thermal fountains or visit a local bathhouse like Balneario Acuña.
Cultural Landmarks
- Church of Saint Thomas Becket: A 19th-century church dedicated to the English martyr.
- Roman Bridge: A reminder of the Camino’s ancient roots.
- Botanical Gardens: A peaceful green space to reflect on your journey.
Practical Tips for Pilgrims
Where to Stay
- Albergue Timón: Budget-friendly option with basic amenities.
- Balneario Acuña: Mid-range hotel with spa access.
Where to Eat
- O Muiño da Chanca: Rustic eatery serving Galician classics.
- Roquiño: Elevated dining experience using seasonal, local ingredients.
Essentials to Pack
- Towel & Bathing Suit: For enjoying the thermal springs.
- Insect Repellent: Especially for shaded, wooded paths.
- Warm Layer: Mornings and evenings can be chilly.
FAQ: What Pilgrims Want to Know
Is Stage 9 suitable for beginners?
Yes. The terrain is gentle, and the route well-marked. It’s one of the more accessible stages for new pilgrims.
Can I visit the thermal springs for free?
Yes. There are public thermal fountains available. For spa services, venues like Balneario Acuña charge a fee.
What time should I start walking?
Early morning is best. Cooler temperatures and fewer crowds make for a more pleasant experience.
Pilgrims’ Reflections: A Soulful Transition
This stage is often described as a turning point in the journey. Pilgrims emerge from the urban bustle into Galicia’s green serenity, preparing their minds and bodies for the final stretch to Santiago. The day ends with a sense of renewal, especially after a warm footbath and a nourishing meal in Caldas de Reis.
