A Cross-Border Journey on the Portuguese Coastal Way
Stage 4 of the Portuguese Coastal Way is a visually stunning and emotionally meaningful part of the pilgrimage. Stretching from Viana do Castelo to A Guarda, this 33-kilometer stage leads pilgrims along coastal paths, riverbanks, and rural landscapes before crossing the border into Spain. Known for its diversity, this segment blends natural beauty, historical heritage, and the symbolic experience of transitioning between two countries.
Despite the ferry no longer operating, this stage remains a favorite due to its rich scenery and the rewarding arrival in Galicia. Whether done in one day or with an overnight stay in Caminha, Stage 4 delivers a deeply fulfilling chapter in the Portuguese Camino.
📌 Quick Overview
Stage: Viana do Castelo → A Guarda
Distance: 33 km (20.5 miles)
Estimated Duration: 7 to 8 hours
Difficulty: Moderate
Landscape: Coastal paths, riverbanks, rural trails, and a border crossing
Main Stops: Caminha, Ferry Crossing, Santa Tegra Hill (A Guarda)
From Atlantic Coast to Celtic Hills
The Portuguese Coastal Way in this stage offers a sequence of shifting landscapes. Starting with the wide Atlantic in Viana do Castelo, pilgrims follow gentle terrain past beaches and dunes, eventually entering quieter riverbanks near Caminha.
This stage builds up to the crossing of the Minho River, followed by a memorable arrival in A Guarda, where Celtic ruins and Galician seafood await. The terrain remains mostly flat, with some moderate inclines near Santa Tegra.
Highlights and Route Details
1. Departing from Viana do Castelo
This coastal city is a gem on the Portuguese Camino, known for the Santa Luzia Basilica and medieval streets. The exit is peaceful, walking along seaside promenades and heading north through natural settings.
2. Caminha: Where River Meets Sea
This riverside town is a great midpoint to:
- Visit the Clock Tower (Torre do Relógio) and Main Church (Igreja Matriz)
- Rest in Praça Conselheiro Silva Torres, the main square
- Stay overnight at Albergue de Caminha if splitting the stage
3. Minho River Crossing: Updated Options
The ferry between Caminha and A Guarda has been suspended since 2023 due to riverbed changes. Current alternatives:
- Xacobeo Transfer: An official municipal boat service from April to October. Book ahead, as spaces are limited and trips depend on weather.
- Private taxi-boats: Arranged through local cafés or accommodations. Prices range from €6 to €10. Ensure the provider meets safety standards.
- Land Detour via Valença/Tui: Walk inland to Valença, cross the international bridge to Tui, and reconnect with the coastal path in Oia or Baiona. This adds 25 to 35 km to your route.
4. Arriving in A Guarda: History and Views
Once in Spain:
- Visit Santa Tegra Hill: a panoramic viewpoint and archaeological site with pre-Roman Celtic ruins
- Explore the town center, full of Galician character
- Enjoy fresh seafood like lobster, a local specialty, at restaurants such as Porto Guardés
Essentials to Bring
Make sure your backpack includes:
- Valid passport or EU ID
- Printed or saved info about river crossing options
- Waterproof jacket or poncho
- Water and snacks (Caminha is the last stop before Spain)
- Camera or binoculars for views at Santa Tegra
Where to Stay and Eat
Lodging Options
In Caminha (if splitting stage):
- Albergue de Caminha: clean, affordable, and pilgrim-friendly
- Design & Wine Hotel: a modern boutique experience
In A Guarda (Spain):
- Albergue de A Guarda: casual and well-located
- Hotel Vila da Guarda: modern amenities and comfort
Food Recommendations
Caminha:
- Restaurante Baptista: great for local Portuguese dishes
A Guarda:
- Porto Guardés: excellent seafood, particularly lobster and octopus
Frequently Asked Questions
Can I complete this stage in one day?
Yes. While it’s a long walk, many pilgrims finish it in a day. Others choose to pause in Caminha.
How do I cross the Minho River now?
Use the Xacobeo Transfer or a private taxi boat in spring/summer. Alternatively, follow the inland detour via Valença and Tui.
Do I need ID to enter Spain?
Yes. Always carry a passport or EU national ID.
Curiosities and Historical Notes
- The Santa Tegra archaeological site is one of Galicia’s most iconic locations, showcasing Celtic history and spectacular views.
- Historically, the Minho River crossing was a strategic route for merchants and pilgrims dating back to Roman times.
- This stage marks the official entry into Spain along the Camino, where language, architecture, and cuisine take on a new rhythm.
A Memorable Transition on the Portuguese Camino
Stage 4 of the Portuguese Coastal Way is not just a geographic transition. It is a spiritual and cultural bridge between Portugal and Spain, Atlantic power and Celtic mystery. The winding coastlines, the silent river, and the historic Galician hills give pilgrims a chance to reflect deeply.
Eager for more? Continue with Stage 5: A Guarda to Baiona, where rugged cliffs, peaceful fishing towns, and ancient legends guide your next steps.
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